Spot vs. premium vs. all-in: a new stacker's price glossary
When you start stacking, the prices come with their own vocabulary, and most of it gets thrown at you with no translation. Spot, melt, premium, hammer, all-in. Here's each one in plain language, in the order they actually build on each other, ending with the single term that tells you whether you got a deal. The rest are just the pieces that feed it.
Spot
The metal floor. Spot is the wholesale price of one ounce of the metal itself, the number that scrolls across the finance tickers. Nothing physical sells at exactly spot. It's the baseline everything else is measured up from. When someone says silver is "at $75," they mean spot.
Fineness (purity)
How much of the metal is actually the metal. A coin or bar is rarely 100% pure, and fineness is the figure that tells you the share that is: .999 means 99.9% pure, .925 ("sterling") means 92.5%, and 22-karat gold is about 91.67%. This matters more than almost anything else on this list, because it's what melt value is calculated from. Two "1 oz silver" pieces can hold different amounts of actual silver if their fineness differs, and the classic way a beginner overpays is assuming a piece is purer than it really is. Always check the fineness, not the reputation.
Melt value
What the metal in a piece is worth, full stop: its weight times its fineness times spot. A 10 oz bar at .999 holds essentially ten ounces of silver, so at $75 spot its melt is about $750. Melt is a useful floor, but it is not a verdict on price. "Below melt" isn't automatically a deal once you add what it costs to actually get the thing, which is the whole point of the melt-value piece.
Premium (over spot)
What you pay above spot to own a real, finished piece instead of an abstract ounce. A struck coin or a poured bar costs more than its raw metal, and that gap is the premium over spot. It varies by product and by where you buy. It isn't a ripoff. It's the cost of turning metal into something you can hold, authenticate, and resell.
Retail
The dealer's delivered price for the equivalent generic metal. This is your honest comparison point, what you'd otherwise pay a normal dealer for the same bullion, delivered to your door. One thing worth keeping straight from day one: this is metal retail. It's the price of the silver or gold, and it does not include collector value, what a scarce piece trades for above its metal content. Keeping those separate is what stops you from mismeasuring a deal.
Hammer price
The winning bid at an auction, the number the auctioneer's hammer falls on. The one thing every new bidder needs to know about it: it is not the price you pay. There's more coming on top, which is the next term.
Buyer's premium
The percentage an auction house adds to your hammer bid, usually somewhere around 15% to 25%. Win a lot at $100 with an 18% buyer's premium and you owe $118 before shipping. Note this is a different "premium" than premium-over-spot above. That one is the markup baked into any bullion product's price. This one is the auction house's cut, charged only at auction. Same word, two different things. The buyer's premium is the term that quietly turns most "auction deals" into ordinary prices, which is why it gets its own piece and a full breakdown of where the rest of the fees add up.
All-in cost
Everything you actually pay, delivered. For a dealer that's price plus shipping. For an auction it's hammer plus the buyer's premium plus shipping plus any card surcharge. All-in is the only honest version of "what did it cost," because it's the number that actually leaves your account.
All-in cost per ounce
All-in cost divided by the ounces of metal you got. This is the one that matters, because it's the only term on the list that lets you compare a coin shop, an online dealer, and an auction lot side by side without fooling yourself, since each of them quotes its price in a different shape. Reduce them all to dollars per ounce and they finally line up honestly. That comparison is the whole game across auction, dealer, and shop.
The one that actually decides
Eight of these nine terms are just inputs. Spot and fineness give you melt. Premium and retail tell you what the thing costs elsewhere. Hammer and buyer's premium build your auction all-in. Only the last one, all-in cost per ounce, tells you whether you got a deal, because it's the only number you can hold against what you'd have paid anywhere else.
You don't have to run that math by hand. Quick Check does the all-in on a single auction lot, and BullionBidder does it across a whole catalog, so the dollars-per-ounce comparison is in front of you before you bid. But the vocabulary is yours to keep either way, and once these nine words stop being jargon, most of the ways a new stacker overpays stop working on you.
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